I (Ali) had a brilliant long weekend at Peg-y-Don recently and wanted to share a great walk that is right on Peg-y-Don’s doorstep – a visit to the somewhat ominous sounding Witches’ Cauldron.
What is The Witches’ Cauldron?
It is a striking natural geological feature along the coast from Newport. It was once a sea cave, and over time, the roof eroded and collapsed, leaving behind a deep, circular rock basin carved into the cliffs.
It’s located on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path near Ceibwr Bay, just a couple of miles from Peg-y-Don.
Part of what makes it so special is that you don’t really see it until you’re almost upon it. Set slightly back from the cliff edge, it creates a dramatic ‘reveal’ at the last moment. With waves swirling in and out, it’s easy to see why it’s been compared to a giant cauldron, and why local folklore has imagined it as a haunted pool or even a witch’s lair.
How to get to The Witches’ Cauldron
You can walk to The Witches’ Cauldron from Peg-y-Don by heading north (towards Cardigan) along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. This route is utterly stunning, with some of the most dramatic clifflines of the entire Pembrokehsire Coast Path, but is approximately six miles so you need to be fit and ready for a good hike.
We had already been out for a long morning walk and we were mindful of losing day light, so opted for the quicker option of driving to Ceibwr Bay. It is a very easy drive – head to Moylgrove and turn left to get to Ceibwr Bay. The journey takes around 15 minutes, with a few slow stretches to let the odd tractor pass.
You’ll know you’ve arrived when the sea comes into view. There’s a reasonable amount of roadside parking just before the bay, though I imagine it gets much busier in the summer months. From there, everything is well signposted.
Ceibwr Bay itself is a pretty bay made up of stones and shingle and edged on both sides by cliffs. It’s tidal so you’ll need to judge tide times if you want to see more of the exposed beach.
If you look up and to the right, the rock formations are extraordinary. My A-level geography knowledge tells me that the sedimentary strata were once laid horizontally and have been pushed upwards over time due to tectonic plate activity, creating dramatic folds.
As an aside, you can also visit The Witches’ Cauldron by kayak. This can be a really magical experience, but you will need to be careful with the tides and we would recommend considering an organised trip if you are new to the area. The cave is also closed to kayak / paddler traffic during seal pupping season (typically around the end of August to November), so please respect the local wildlife.
The walk
From the beach, we briefly headed back up the road before taking a right onto the coastal path. Hold on to your hat at this point… The path quickly becomes exposed, with strong winds and steep drops just a few feet away. It’s an incredible walk, but one where I’d personally feel cautious taking very young children. Dog owners would probably want to keep their dogs on a lead too – especially those whose four-legged friends have a penchant for chasing seagulls like our pointer, Peggy.
Despite a dry day beforehand and bright sunshine, parts of the path were still muddy and slippery. It was definitely still March… Combined with the proximity to sheer drops, it’s not a walk not for the faint-hearted or those with mobility issues. Walking boots were definitely the order of the day.
After about a mile, the path leads to a set of steps that take you down towards the Witches’ Cauldron itself. On one side, a stream disappears into the basin, while on the other, a narrow opening connects it to the sea. There’s also a small bridge, perfect for capturing photographic evidence that you made it.
Here are a few snaps of our day:
Although we didn’t spot any Atlantic Grey Seals, dolphins or otters, the area is known for wildlife, so it’s worth keeping an eye out.
At the time of writing, I’m not familiar with Moylgrove, so I can’t say whether it’s easy to pick up snacks there before heading to Ceibwr Bay. We didn’t need any for the short stretch we completed but to be safe, especially if you’re planning a longer walk, it’s best to bring supplies with you. There are no facilities (toilets, shop or cafe) at the beach itself.
For those who prefer not to retrace their steps, there is a circular route that heads inland and loops back to Ceibwr Bay, though with the sun setting over the horizon, we chose to return the way we came.
One for the bucket list
Walking along this stretch of coast really makes you feel alive.
It’s not just the height and exposure, but the sheer vibrancy of the landscape on a clear day. The deep blue sky, teal sea, white foam crashing against the cliffs, and vivid green land combine to create something truly breathtaking.
There are lots of fantastic walks near Newport, but I would definitely encourage you to add The Witches’ Cauldron to your list if you like dramatic coastlines and breathtaking views.
