I must confess that I tend to scoff at the notion of ‘wild’ swimming and simply call it swimming. Just not in a swimming pool.
There is no doubt, though, that wild swimming is having a moment. If you are not wrapped up in a Dry Robe enjoying the post-swim endorphin hit, you are simply not living… If it tickles your fancy, I would humbly suggest that Pembrokeshire is one of the finest places in Britain to get cold, salty and completely hooked on open water swimming.
The coastline around Newport in particular is extraordinary. Within a short drive, or a walk if you are staying at Peg-y-Don, you have everything from sheltered coves to wide sandy bays, dramatic sea stacks and water so clear it genuinely doesn’t look like it belongs on this island.
Inspired by watching the brilliantly named Bluetits Chill Swimmers enjoying the water (and The Cat Rock cafe afterwards…) at Traeth Mawr, and having enjoying some glorious swims in the Pembrokeshire sea, I thought that it would be interesting to share some of local beaches where you can enjoy some of the finest wild swimming in the UK.
Our favourite spots include:
Newport Sands (Traeth Mawr)
Let’s start at home. Newport Sands is quite literally on the doorstep of Peg-y-Don and it’s a genuinely brilliant swim.
The beach stretches for over a mile and, outside of peak summer, you’ll often have a long stretch of it to yourself. The Nevern estuary at the southern end adds an interesting dimension: the water here is shallower and noticeably warmer than the open sea, which makes it a great spot if you’re building up your wild swimming confidence or if you’re bringing children.
The open water end of the beach offers a more serious swim, as it is more exposed and you can encounter much wilder sea conditions, but the views back towards Carningli making it very special.
Cwm yr Eglwys
A short drive around the headland towards Dinas brings you to Cwm yr Eglwys, one of the most peaceful and picturesque spots on this stretch of coast. The ruined church wall at the water’s edge – the remnants of a 12th-century chapel destroyed in a storm in 1859 – makes it unlike anywhere else I’ve swum.
The bay is sheltered and relatively calm, which makes it a good choice on days when the open sea is a bit lively. The water is beautifully clear. It’s not a huge beach, so arrive early in summer to secure your spot, but out of season it’s wonderfully quiet.
The walk over the top of Dinas Head from here to Pwllgwaelod on the other side is a fantastic add-on if you want to make a morning of it.
Pwllgwaelod
On the other side of Dinas Head sits Pwllgwaelod, a shingle and sand bay with a good depth of water even at low tide. It’s less well-known than Newport Sands and feels noticeably quieter as a result.
The Sailors’ Safety pub is right at the back of the beach, which is a significant bonus — there’s nothing quite like a post-swim pint in front of their fire in September. There is also currently a mobile sauna parked up on the beach, which is a unique experience.
The water here can have a bit of movement to it so it’s worth checking conditions, particularly if you’re swimming with younger members of the family.
Aber Rhigian
This one requires a little more effort to reach, which is precisely why we love it. Aber Rhigian is a small, rocky cove tucked below the coastal path a short walk from Newport. There’s no car park; you’ll need to walk down from the coastal path.
The reward is a swim that feels genuinely remote and unspoilt. At low tide, there’s a small beach to set up on. The rocks either side create a natural enclosure and the water has that particular deep-blue colour that makes you feel very far from home in the best possible way.
It’s not suitable for nervous swimmers or young children due to the rocky entry, but for confident swimmers it’s a real treat.
Poppit Sands
Worth mentioning for a slightly longer outing – Poppit Sands is about a 20-minute drive from Newport and marks the northern end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It’s a wide, wild, sandy beach at the mouth of the Teifi estuary and is one of those beaches that looks genuinely different depending on the tide and the weather.
At low tide, the sand stretches out almost endlessly. The estuary is popular with families for its calmer water, while the open sea end is more exposed and better suited to experienced swimmers. The RNLI lifeguard service operates here in summer, which adds an extra layer of reassurance if you’re newer to open water swimming.
Water temperature
Pembrokeshire’s water temperature peaks around September. Personally, I think that this is one of the best times to visit Newport as the summer crowds have left and you can still be blessed with some incredible weather. That said, you can swim here year round – you just need to chose whether to cheat and wear a wetsuit or not 🙂 Here are some brave souls swimming on Boxing day last Christmas:
Logistics
Always check the tide times before you go – many of the smaller coves are only accessible at low or mid tide.
The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park website has good local information, and apps like Surf Forecast or Magic Seaweed will give you a sense of conditions.
If you’re new to wild swimming, I would recommend starting with Newport Sands or Cwm yr Eglwys and working up from there. Whichever beach you choose, come and stay at Peg-y-Don as you are so close to all these spots. You can check the booking calendar to see the latest availability.
